The modern sartorial landscape has unequivocally embraced the men’s bag, elevating it from a mere utilitarian accessory to a pivotal statement of personal style, seen everywhere from international airport lounges to exclusive event arrivals. Long before this widespread acceptance, Hermès was already forging masterpieces in the realm of men’s carryall solutions. Under the visionary stewardship of Véronique Nichanian, the men’s bag was conceived not as a fleeting seasonal trend, but as an artifact of permanence—designed to withstand decades of devoted use and eventual restoration.
This retrospective arrives at a significant juncture: the closing of Nichanian’s remarkable 38-year tenure at Hermès, marked by her final Fall-Winter 2026 collection. Across 76 runway presentations, Nichanian maintained an almost monastic dedication to quality and enduring design, famously consulting the venerable Hermès archives only twice. Her ethos centered on creating objects meant to be integrated into the fabric of daily life—pieces that gain character through wear, can be expertly repaired, and ultimately become treasured heirlooms. As the baton is prepared to pass to Grace Wales Bonner, whose debut is anticipated in January 2027, we examine ten quintessential men’s bag designs from nearly the last decade that perfectly encapsulate Nichanian’s genius for marrying exquisite craft with practical, sophisticated innovation.
1. The Sac à Dépêches Briefcase: A Tactile Update (c. 2015)
A foundational element of the Hermès men’s portfolio, the classic Sac à Dépêches Briefcase was given a witty, textural evolution by Nichanian for the Fall-Winter 2015 season. While preserving its defining architectural structure, secure clasp mechanism, and distinguished top handle, this iteration featured an innovative embossed motif. This detail depicted a small camera nestled within the leather, creating an almost three-dimensional visual effect. The layered construction and subtle depth of this design subtly echoed the conceptual playfulness first seen in Jean-Paul Gaultier’s introduction of the Shadow Birkin in 2009, proving that tradition can accommodate sophisticated trompe-l’oeil artistry.
2. The Bolide Shark: Iconic Form with a Playful Edge (c. 2016)
The 1923 Bolide remains an archetype of luxury travel bags, celebrated for its perfect, rounded silhouette. For Fall-Winter 2016, Nichanian injected an element of spirited character into this icon. The result was the Bolide Shark, where the classic shape was adorned with a leather appliqué depicting a distinctly mischievous shark. Complete with precisely rendered, jagged teeth and expressive eyes, the design achieved a delicate equilibrium between whimsical charm and the unwavering high standards of Hermès craftsmanship. It was a piece that subtly suggested the iconic bag had a playful "bite."
3. The Kelly Dépeches 25 Pouch: Compact Refinement (c. 2019)
Distilling the revered authority of the Kelly into a streamlined, contemporary format, the Kelly Dépeches 25 Pouch debuted in the Men’s Fall-Winter 2019 collection. This piece retained the unmistakable hallmarks of its namesake—the signature flap closure, the iconic sangles (straps), and the distinctive touret (turn-lock)—but presented them on a subtly structured, rounded base. Fashioned for polished, modern utility, the pouch was designed to be lightweight and supremely versatile. Internally, it featured smart organization, including a dedicated slot for an iPad mini and a pocket for business cards, complemented by a removable wrist lanyard for flexible hand or wrist carry.
4. The Hac à Dos: Heritage in Backpack Form (c. 2022)
Challenging the traditionally hand-carried nature of the imposing HAC silhouette, Véronique Nichanian introduced the Hac à Dos in 2022, transforming the classic shape into a highly functional backpack. This redesign maintained the elongated profile, characteristic sangles, and iconic touret hardware, but integrated a contemporary carrying solution. Offered in three ascending sizes (PM to GM), its most striking feature was the single, wide, adjustable shoulder strap, allowing it to be worn comfortably across the body, over one shoulder, or as a true backpack. Furthermore, the deliberate omission of the clochette allowed for a prominent leather plaque beneath the pontets (the points where the straps attach), offering an intriguing visual element when the bag was left open.
5. The Kelly Messenger: Casualizing the Icon (c. 2023)
Expanding the Kelly universe further, the Kelly Messenger arrived on the Men’s Fall-Winter 2023 runway, presenting a relaxed yet utterly sophisticated interpretation of the classic. Adopting a pragmatic messenger silhouette, the bag faithfully incorporated the traditional flap, sangles, plaque, and touret closure. Rendered in supple Togo leather, this iteration prioritized everyday comfort with a wide, adjustable strap designed for effortless crossbody or shoulder wear. Its generous base and accommodating body ensured it could house more than just the bare essentials, marking a successful bridge between established heritage and contemporary functional necessity.
6. The Coup de Soleil HAC: Riviera Sunburn Effect (c. 2024)
For Spring-Summer 2024, the enduring HAC tote received a delightful, sun-dappled treatment dubbed the Coup de Soleil. Crafted from luxurious Togo leather, Nichanian creatively discarded the traditional clochette. In its place, a lighter, subtly "sunburned" patch of leather marked the spot where the clochette would typically hang, evoking the charming effect of prolonged sun exposure along the Côte d’Azur. This tonal contrast provided a soft, light-dappled dimension to the otherwise deep coloring of the bag, demonstrating that even Hermès’s most stoic forms could embrace a touch of Mediterranean leisure.
7. The Équipier Pouch: Luxury for the Urban Cyclist (c. 2026)
Culminating in her final season, the Équipier Pouch for Fall-Winter 2026 channeled the spirit of cycling into a highly practical luxury item. Its ergonomic construction was engineered to keep necessities immediately accessible, whether strapped across the torso, worn over the shoulder, carried as a clutch, or even draped over bicycle handlebars. Fashioned from smooth calfskin, the pouch featured multiple zippered compartments to neatly organize a phone, wallet, and keys. It represented the ultimate accessory for the modern urbanite navigating city grids or enjoying a weekend ride, blending athletic functionality with refined aesthetics.
8. The Connect-the-Dots Shadow HAC: A Conceptual Finale (c. 2025)
In a testament to creative longevity, the Connect-the-Dots Shadow HAC from the Winter 2025 collection offered a meta-commentary on the house’s own design language. Reflecting the "Drawn to Craft" theme for that year, this bag took the HAC silhouette—a shape that was itself a departure from the standard—and deconstructed it conceptually. The flap, sangles, and hardware were digitally stripped away, leaving only embossed and screen-printed outlines tracing the bag’s original structure. Tiny numbered points and a white overlay transformed the tote into a clever, interactive "connect-the-dots" homage, celebrating Hermès’s profound heritage through playful abstraction.
9. The Long-Courrier Garment Bag: Modular Travel System (c. 2026)
Nichanian’s vision for travel reached its zenith with the Long-Courrier Garment Bag for Spring-Summer 2026. This was presented not as a singular item, but as a modular travel system. It comprised a large protective suit bag paired with a matching holdall, both featuring dual top handles. The innovation lay in their synergy: the pieces could be carried separately, or seamlessly combined by laying the suit bag flat, placing the holdall atop it, and securing the two with leather tabs and buckles at either end. Constructed from durable H canvas and elegant Barénia calfskin, this system offered sophisticated protection for suiting, perfectly complementing the R.M.S Cabin Suitcase.
10. The Plume Fourre-Tout On Radio: A Rhythmic Farewell (c. 2026)
The crowning jewel of Nichanian’s final runway presentation was the Plume Fourre-Tout On Radio. This bag masterfully repurposed the shape of the iconic Plume tote into a tribute to music. Executed in immaculate smooth leather, the design was embellished with detailed speaker appliqués and tactile, raised playback buttons. A zippered slider served a dual purpose: functional access to a small compartment while simultaneously mimicking the controls of a vintage radio. Adding a final layer of nostalgic detail, a removable leather cassette snapped securely into place, opening to reveal a hidden storage area—a miniature, functional ode to analog technology that punctuated her final, memorable collection.
Across nearly four decades of Véronique Nichanian’s celebrated tenure, Hermès men’s accessories have consistently redefined the parameters of luxury utility. These ten designs stand as powerful testaments to her philosophy: that true style is built on impeccable craft, thoughtful utility, and an unwavering commitment to creating objects of lasting significance. Which of these enduring creations best captures the spirit of the Nichanian era for you?